Saturday, 8 August 2009

Hong Kong Summers and Bad Hair Days


Hong Kong summers are so much fun....junk boat trips around the harbour, roof top terrace parties, and laying out by the pool. We get the chance to wear flowing maxi dresses and sandals nearly everyday. Life doesn't get much better, but wait--the HUMIDITY! The humidity manages to make my hair take on a life of its own. No matter how much time I spend blow drying, flat ironing, and styling, the second I walk out of my air conditioned apartment into the hot and humid streets of Hong Kong, my hair looks like a natural disaster.

I went to see my amazing hair stylist Shayne the owner of Salon Chandler a couple days ago. I begged for him to teach me ways to wear my hair up, asked if perhaps I should just chop it off for the summer, whined about all the unmanageable fly-aways and frizz.... Shayne had a simple answer for me BAREX de-frizzante line. Immediately I thought great, more hair products that are just going to break my bank and take up space in my cabinet (I have every possible product for the hair, and I swear I never ever use them!). I was super skeptical, so Shayne convinced me to start with at least the BAREX de-frizzante spray. I have to say, I have been using this leave-in spray for the past few days and my hair is definitely a bit more manageable! This frizz eliminating, static defying, humidity blocking spray is really making it possible for me to wear my hair down in this Hong Kong heat. I might even go back to Salon Chandler this week to get the shampoo and conditioner as well!!

Salon Chandler: 2537-3737
My Stylist: Shayne Chandler--in my opinion the most fab stylist in HK!

Friday, 7 August 2009

Private Sale: Dalumi Jewellery

Private sales have been rather thin on the ground lately, so we were happy to receive this invitation for Dalumi Jewellery, who are holding an event tomorrow at Central Tower. The event also involves Francesca chocolates, our favourites! Click on the image above to see all the details.

Thursday, 6 August 2009

Style Inspiration - Cocktail Party

Today's style inspiration is Cocktail Hour. This is very fitting because we have Sassy Hour tonight and I am quite ready to enjoy a few cocktails with all the Sassy Girls. This look is very much my style already, but the clothes are more fabulous than the ones in my closet!! In my opinion when you are dressing up for a nice cocktail event it is nice to look ladylike yet stylish at the same time. I am a big fan of structured styles and I have been loving grey lately so this dress is an A+ in my book. This whole look has me wanting to mingle and drink champagne all night long just like my favorite style icon Audrey Hepburn!

One a personal note, my sister recently got engaged and she told me today that she was thinking about using the colors grey and yellow for her wedding. I already had this board created so I told her I had the perfect outfit already planned for her wedding! Now I guess I just have to convince her to chose this as her bridesmaid dress. My vote is on this dress...please, please, please!

Where to get this outfit
Dress: Grey silk corset dress (debenhams.com), Necklace: Oscar de la Renta (net-a-porter.com), Shoes: L.A.M.B (piperlime.gap.com), Clutch: Tory Burch (toryburch.com), Earrings: EWA Pear Studs (johnlewis.com), Nail Polis: Chanel (voguefactory.blogspot.com)

Wednesday, 5 August 2009

Style Inspiration - Dinner and Drinks

Today's style inspiration is an outfit I would like to wear out to Dinner and Drinks. I have to say that this is not the original outfit I put together. The original outfit had me in my comfort zone of jeans but after a fun conversation with Hester yesterday we decided that to complete my edgy look I need to shorten the hem on my skirts (but keep it classy at the same time!!). For a while now I have been obsessed with the look Gwyneth Paltrow had when she was promoting Iron Man last year. Her hair and style is exactly the look I am after. I even went as far as trying to get my hair cut the same way as hers - let's just say that didn't end well. As I was creating this board with "The Gwyneth" style in mind I almost talked myself into calling the hairdresser and chopping my hair off again in the hopes that this time it would turn out just like hers. Hester did a very good job of talking me out of it since she remembered how miserable I was when I was growing out my hair from my last Gwyneth haircut attempt!

Now onto the outfit...
Skirt - I am going to make an effort to not always reach for my jeans when I am planning an evening out. What I think works about a skirt this short is that it can still be on the classic side if the top is not too flashy. My goal for next week is to go shopping for a short black skirt and try to recreate this outfit. Stay tuned for some real life pics - we will see how close I can come to recreating this look!
Tank Top - I think every girl needs a basic tank in black, grey and white. I actually like to have more than 1 in each color because I wear them constantly and I hate when a tank is in the laundry and I can't wear it.
Necklace: I am so in love with this necklace. To me this necklace is what is contributing to the edgy vibe in this outfit. I seem to be obsessed with necklaces these days so I am on the hunt for any cool places that sell necklaces like this. If you know of any please let me know!!
Clutch: I would say I am not normally into bling bling clutches but I really love this Alexander McQueen one. The skull on the clasp is awesome and if it wasn't so much money I would buy this in an instant.
Shoes: I am a big fan of an all black outfit with a colored shoe that makes the outfit pop, so for this outfit I picked a pair of girly pink heels to balance the dark edge of the rest of the outfit.
Beauty Accessories: I just got back from the nail salon now and as I type my nails are a dark grey. I go back and forth between natural and dark colors on my nails but I have to say there is something about a dark nail that is oh so cool!

Tomorrow's look - Cocktail Party

Where to get this outfit
Skirt: Vivienne Westwood Anglomania (my-wardrobe.com), Tank Top: Crumpet Cashmere (net-a-porter.com), Shoes: PRECIOUS High Shoe by Boutique (topshop.com), Clutch: Black Crystal Skull Clutch (alexandermcqueen.com) Necklace: Givenchy (luisaviaroma.com), Earrings: EWA Peal Studs (johnlewis.com), Nail Polish: Essie (sugarscape.com), Eye Shadow: Too Faced Cosmetics (asos.com)

Fighting Frizz

With all the rain and humidity we've been having lately, after a day of schlepping around to meetings we're all a little frizzy and frazzled - sleek locks are just not achievable in a Hong Kong summer unfortunately for us... We have also heard from very respected hairdresser authorities that de-frizzing products don't work at all and actually leave your hair flat and sad-looking by weighing it down.

Last week we blogged about the beauty looks ahead, and how on the runways textured hair ruled. Now we're spotting more and more examples of braids (or plaits as we British call them!) in style magazines and around town. In particular, the fishbone style (shown above on Mary Kate and Diane Kruger) is a great option as it works with hair's natural frizz and wave to create a messy and imperfect, but still cool look. Even better, if you have problems with styling with combs and hands around the back of your head (I am very challenged in this area!), you can pull the braid around to the side and it will look even better. Voila - summer frizz embraced!

Image via Who What Wear

Tuesday, 4 August 2009

Sassy Belly Dancing at Oasis Dance Centre




Sassy went Belly Dancing at Oasis Dance Centre in Wanchai on Saturday the 25th of July. The Oasis Dance Centre is the perfect venue to get any girl into the belly dancing mood.... Decorated to make you feel like you are in a Harem with red draped curtains and lots of candles! Mey Jen our instructor (and owner of the Oasis Dance Centre) helped us all to reach our inner Goddess as we shimmied and shaked our way through the lesson. We learned to look like pros (or at least pretend) with moves like the Camel, Snake Arms, and of course various Hip Bumps! Every girl went home with a Sassy pink hip wrap and lots of belly dancing moves. We enjoyed delicious canapes from Asaff Lebanese Cuisine and Sutherlands Creek Wine from Eighteen Plus Wines. The night was such fun as we shared many laughs while we shook our hips! Definitely a fabulous way to spend our Saturday evening.

Doing this class has inspired us at Sassy to do more Saturday evening dance classes. We have lots of fun ideas that we are working on....stay tuned!


Style Inspiration - Saturday Afternoon in the City

Yesterday we discussed Lane Crawford's Autumn/Winter Collection so with fall/winter on the brain throughout the rest of the week I am going to be posting an outfit a day that I plan to use as my inspiration for when the weather turns cooler. I am always complaining that I don't like summer clothes and nothing makes me happier than when it is time to bring out my fall wardrobe. I am already trying to put on my jeans and jacket combos despite the fact that it is about 30 degrees almost every single day! In this inspiration board I am imagining myself on the streets in NYC, window shopping down Madison Avenue and enjoying an early fall day. It is making me wishful just thinking about it...

So in order to better understand my inspiration boards over the next couple of days I thought I would tell you a little about my style:

How do I describe my personal style?
I (and I am pretty sure everyone I know) would describe my style as classic. I would have to say that Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel are two of my all time favorite style icons. Pearls, sunglasses, structured black and white boucle jackets (similar to above) are already staples in my wardrobe. With that being said you will see pearl earrings in each of the boards I created since I wear them every day without fail.

What do I want to change/enhance about my personal style?
I want to put more of an edge into my style. While I like my classic look sometimes I feel that it can be a bit on the boring side so I am loving the idea of combining a classic structured style with accessories that put a little edge to my look. In the board above the black and silver chain purse is a perfect mix of classic and edgy for me. I also love the necklace and t-shirt combination that is shown here because it keeps a sophisticated outfit more casual and rock-and roll.

An outfit is not complete without the perfect....
Pair of shoes! I love, love, love shoes and I would be perfectly happy to wear jeans. a white t-shirt and a different pair of amazing shoes (preferably high heels) every day of the week. I have just begun to appreciate flats (as I said, I love high heels and will wear them mostly everywhere I can) and I love the boldness the red flats in my board bring to the basic black and white look. I must say that an edgy pearl necklace is giving shoes a run for its money in regards to being my favorite accessory these days...

It is only Tuesday but I am already dreaming about a leisurely Saturday afternoon in the city. Too bad for us Hong Kongers - it is going to be hot and rainy this Saturday. Guess an inspiration on this outfit will have to wait a couple of months before its Hong Kong debut!

Tommorrow's look - Dinner and Drinks Outfit

Where to get this outfit
Jeans: Bootcut NYD Stretch Jean, 7 for all Mankind (my-wardrobe.com), T-Shirt: Wildfox Couture (chickdowntown.com), Jacket: Miss Real Boucle Jacket (oli.co.uk), Bag: YSL (matchesfashion.com), Necklace: BKE Cross Wing Necklace (buckle.com), Earrings: EWA Pearl Studs (johnlewis.com), Sunglasses: Lulu Guinness Fan (oli.co.uk), Shoes: Faith (faith.co.uk)

Monday, 3 August 2009

Nothing to wear?



As an exercise in sustainable fashion (and to benefit the Akanksha Foundation) Sheena Matheiken, has pledged to wear the same dress for a whole year... well, technically it is 7 identical dresses, one for each day of the week. The dress can be worn either forwards or backwards, and can also open like a coat. Supporters can donate accessories via the Uniform Project website, and receive a special shout-out to the creator. Sheena posts photos of herself every day, and is a great example of how with a little imagination, you can change something very ordinary into a special look.

The dress is designed by Eliza Starbuck, and created to be cool in the summer and warm in winter. It is hopefully super-durable as well! I'm sure once we have seen all the looks that Sheena can eek out of it, we'll all be wanting one too!

Formulaic?

I love The Sartorialist, but was still amused by this flow chart showing how to get snapped by him... I have to admit I had noticed a certain predilection for rolled up trousers!

A First Look at The Now


"This season is about a woman's strength... a woman who is confident in her self-expression, one who can be adventurous and strong, without ever losing her femininity."

"The Now", Lane Crawford's Autumn/Winter collection, which is beginning to be shown in highly edited and inspirational displays in stores, is such a departure from previous seasons that it instantly makes you extremely covetous. For any fashion lover, a quick glance will make the hairs on the back of your neck stand up. Clearly showing the impact of the recent global financial turmoils, gone are ruffles and soft pale wistfulness, and in their place come shoulder pads and sleek black leather punched with metal studs and shocks of neon. One can read the message very clearly - only the strong survive.
That's not to say you can't glitter and shimmy your way into this brave new world. Shiny mesh dresses, chains and cuffs by the armload and metallic leather Doc Martens; these will be your fashion armour. Animal prints, which began to gain momentum during Spring/Summer, are roaring hot, with leopard pieces from Dolce and Gabbana, Christian Louboutin and Stella McCartney the best of the wild bunch.
Black is never boring this season, with distressed textures, exposed zips and artfully ripped fabrics. Statement bags, if you ever thought they went away, are back with a vengeance. Alexander Wang's innovative pieces in particular are flying off the shelves, so if you miss them now, you may miss out.

Some designers have decided to venture down different paths. Thakoon has gone floral with flirty chiffon minis, and Roland Mouret with his RM line has explored origami-inspired jewel tone dresses. After several years of mixing colour with black being a bit of a don't, suddenly it looks fresh and new again. A glamorous statement red lip will always be the best accessory to black after all.
**Our First Look with Lane Crawford Event is now full. We're sorry if you missed out on this one - we had an amazing response, and will hope to work on similar events in the future. Thank you for your support!**

Pink Femininity by Jiang Congyi


Sassy has found a new artist that we have to check out! Beginning today (August 3rd) until the end of the month Jiang Congyi will be showcasing her Pink Femininity collection at Connoisseur Contemporary. What drew me to her work is that her portraits are all female and she uses Sassy's favorite color (which is pink of course!) as the predominant shade in her paintings. Jiang's paintings are based off of her own female perspective and her work loosely reflects her views on the social image of Chinese women today.

This is an exhibition every Sassy girl should check out!

Pink Femininity Exhibition
G4, Chinachem Hollywood Centre
1 Hollywood Road
Central
3521 0300

Friday, 31 July 2009

Happy Friday!

Have wonderful weekend! We're signing off until Monday... Not because we're going to go lie on a beach though unfortunately...

Image from Camilla Akrans

The Makeup Look Ahead

Today we're taking a peek at fall beauty inspirations... In Hong Kong where summer can seem as though it lasts forever (as anyone who has gone into the month of October still unable to justify pulling on a pair of jeans), an easy way to update our look is to switch up our makeup look.
At Versace, the look was edgy and glamorous with heavy dark lids smouldering with black and blue shadow, offset with picture perfect matte skin and nude lips. Pressed powder is an essential for this look, though it might not have been a staple for the past few seasons. Hair was tough-girl-chic, and definitely not pretty... I seem to manage to achieve this look fairly easily after a yoga class without any styling aids at all! While this look is definitely one to leave on the catwalk, it does give inspiration for mixing textures - slick crowns contrasting with backcombed ponytails.
At Bottega Veneta, a softer look was shown, to complement a sexy, romantic collection. Again, we see perfect matte skin achieved with liquid foundation and pressed powder, and a sultry eye with a swoop of black pencil liner and brown and taupe shadows. The lips are wine-colored and imperfect - what Pat McGrath called, "broken glamor".
Hair was slicked back with gel after being backcombed to give some volume at the front, and then the back was teased into a messy roll at the base of the skull. A little like you have rolled around on your hair do for a while!
If sultry edgy chic, or romantic glamor looks aren't really your bag, perhaps you will draw inspiration from the eighties inspired looks seen at the Marc Jacobs show. Francois Nars was lured back to the catwalk do his first show in more than 10 years, and didn't disappoint with his creativity. We once again see porcelain skin, this time paired with black-rimmed eyes paired with powder shadows taken right up and onto the brow.
Unlike the pale faces at Versace and Bottega Veneta, at Marc Jacobs cheek contours were striking. Lips were either nude or shimmering, and hair was truly gravity defying.
So... seems that items to really stock up on for the coming season are a liquid foundation and pressed powder, hair spray and a comb to backcomb. It seems serious makeup is back!

All images via style.com

Thursday, 30 July 2009

Getaway get the look: Paris

Alors, it's that time of the week again... we're escaping HK to get the look of another fun destination! Last week was Bangkok, this week PARIS!
Achieving the inimitable French style is not easy mes chéries... Some general rules to live by to achieve the French look are:

1) French women almost never wear prints. They choose block coloured garments in neutral or dark colours for easy mix-and-matching. This daytime outfit in nude and cream shades can be mixed up and accessorized in different ways, but will always look fresh and expensive.
2) A chic pair of flats can elevate a casual outfit. Be a little wary of ballet slippers as they can make your calves look a little chunk-a-dunk. A good way to avoid this is to choose a nude colour that will blend with your skin tone.

3) Always have a little something sexy... A top that slips down over one shoulder, a skirt that shows a toned flash of thigh, or a low-backed dress. Balance this with being very modest in all other areas - sometimes more is less, you know?
4) Black NEVER goes out of style, especially if it is figure hugging and good quality. Buy the best you can afford and see how you will wear it again and again. Try to keep from spilling your MacDo coffee on your outfit... not a good look.

5) Invest in good lingerie. It's the little touches of luxury that only you know about that will put a swing in your step and a glint in your eye.

So, some little hints to achieve the Parisien style... Bon chance!

Top Image: The Sartorialist
Day Look: Ted Lapidus Sunglasses from Loveworn; Stella McCartney top from Net-a-Porter; Ted Rossi Bangles; Ballet Flats from H&M; Chloe bag; Topshop Skirt.
Second Image: Source Unknown
Night Look: Miu Miu Bra; Boy by Band of Outsiders Tank; Givenchy chain & feather bracelet; Lanvin Choker; Alexander Wang Skirt; Michael Antonio Gladiator Booties; Madame a Paris Purse.

The Polite Umbrella


We all know Hong Kong sidewalks can be lethal in the rain - a million people crowding together wielding umbrellas can mean you need to keep an eye out, or you might get an eye poked out! If you're above 5ft tall, walking in central in the rain can be an exercise in ducking and weaving.

This "Polite Umbrella" therefore seems like the perfect Hong Kong invention. You can fold down one or both sides at once to avoid passers by. Shame it seems to just be a prototype currently - we would buy one immediately if it were for sale!

The Return of the Fashion T

We attended some of the Mandarin Oriental's "Fashion T" events earlier this year, so were thrilled to see that they will be continuing the tradition this September! Each Thursday a different designer will be showcasing their new collection, including Armani, Salvatore Ferragamo and Escada. From looking at the stills of the catwalk shows for each designer on Style.com, it seems the Salvatore Ferragamo collection in particular is a must-see.

The Fashion T's are so girly and fun - sitting down to tea and cakes with friends and watching a fashion show at the same time, what could be better? We're excited to see the creative ideas the Mandarin comes up with, as last time they had themed all the cakes and chocolates to feature truffles shaped like lipsticks and little handbags.

There are two shows each Thursday; one at 3pm and then another at 4.45pm. Tickets are HK$488 for two including the afternoon tea. You can book them by phoning 2825 4007 or email mohkg-clipperlounge@mohg.com.

See you there!

Image of Salvatore Ferragamo's Autumn Winter Collection via Style.com

We're trying to resist...

We're trying so hard to resist posting new season images when it's still the height of summer and hot outside, but this image from Vogue China's August edition is just too cool to keep to ourselves. As of mid-August we're probably going to crack and let it all out - we just LOVE winter clothes!

Wednesday, 29 July 2009

The Golden Age of Couture

The hot, steamy and rainy weather we have been having lately has me on a search of fun things to do indoors. Throw in the recent boredom of my regular Central/Mid Levels routine I have decided to search for girly things to do away from Hong Kong Island. Lucky for me I discovered that the Hong Kong Heritage Museum has an exhibition called The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957, which will be showing until September 28th. I am planning on recruiting Hester and Natalie to join me on a day trip to Sha Tin someday soon and we will discuss all things couture (and of course Sassy too!)

The exhibition highlights post-war couture during 1947-1957, which is the decade that Christian Dior called the "Golden Age" of fashion. It examines the history of couture and its introduction into the fashion we see on the runways today. The exhibition showcases the works of Christian Dior, Cristobal Balenciaga, Pierre Balmain and Hubert de Givenchy in Paris and their London counterparts Norman Hartnell and Hardy Amies. Also included in the exhibit are photographs, documentary film, textiles and archive material from this fashionable time period.

Not that you should need another reason to go but if you do I will give you one. You will see more than 100 dresses on display including daywear, cocktail and evening dresses made for the high society and royalty!

I am almost all set to go...I just need to figure out what I am going to wear!

Address:
1 Man Lam Road, Sha Tin
Opening Hours:
10am-6pm (Mon, Wed, Thur, Fri, Sat)
10am-7pm (Sun and public holidays)
Closed on Tuesday
Admission:
$20 (Thursday to Monday)
$10 (Wednesday)

Sassy Addresses: Lams Season



It might be tiny, but it sparkles so you can't miss it! Lams Season is on Lyndhurst Terrace in what I suppose is technically Noho, and the outside of the shop is covered in shiny gold mosaic tiles, making it a draw for our magpie eyes. Inside, the light and airy shop space is a treasure trove for all things feminine and girly: lots of embellished floaty dresses and tops in pale colours, jewellery and a few carefully selected shoe styles.

Clothing is by Chailie Ho, a Hong Kong-born young designer who studied fashion at Cenral Saint Martins. Her ethereal and unstructured designs are effortlessly simple, but with a twist that elevates them to something special. For this summer season the collection has a Chloe-esque vibe, and prices are reasonable at around $500 for a dress or top.

Lams Season
G/F 23-31 Lyndhurst Terrace (Opposite Dymocks)
info@chailieho.com 2851 8636

Tuesday, 28 July 2009

Rabbit Food

Apart from Dressed in IFC, which is great, it can be hard to find tasty, fresh and affordable salad options in Hong Kong. Which is why we're thrilled to have found this article in the New York Times listing 101 recipes for Simple Salads. The best part is that they're not even really recipes, just serving suggestions containing few ingredients and simple preparations. Print it out and stick it on your fridge - there are some unusual combinations, and plenty of vegan and veggie suggestions too. Bon Appetit!

Chanel from Vogue Paris

Happy to have found the Chanel page from the Vogue Paris spread I blogged last week - we're still going through all the answers we received about style influences, but it's amazing how many girls cite Chanel.

Wow - two Chanel posts in a row... we need to mix it up!

Sassy Address: Dining Wok




When my husband and I were living in the States we dedicated every Sunday night to Chinese take-out. Usually that meant crab ragoons, wanton soup, egg rolls, General Tao's Chicken, and of course finished off with a fortune cookie! I have discovered that American Chinese Cuisine is basically a style of Chinese food that is not usually found in China! Deep-fried, stir-fried, and smothered in salt and oil seems to be the trend in American style Chinese food. Oh, and of course I don't want to forget about the MSG (although I think that most places are trying to offer the no MSG menus)! While I absolutely love the Chinese food here in Hong Kong, I actually have discovered a restaurant that prides itself on creating American Chinese Cuisine, The Dining Wok.

The Dining Wok is located on St. Francis Street in Wan Chai (very near to Star Street). The tables are decorated with the Chinese Zodiac Chart making for great conversation, I am the year of the Sheep. The menu is loaded with pictures and descriptions of all the dishes (very helpful to me!). We began with the pork pot-stickers and spring rolls, followed by wanton soup---and yes, the wantons were the fried wantons, sweet and sour chicken, and to my surprise we even had fortune cookies with our bill! I would say that the Dining Wok (which actually means "Big Trouble" in Cantonese) was a good match to our Sunday night take-out from the States.

The Dining Wok, G/F 12 St. Francis Street, Wan Chai, 2861-2722

Monday, 27 July 2009

Lily Allen for Chanel

I love Lily Allen, despite, and perhaps a little bit because of, her tendency to get inappropriately drunk and disorderly at important events. I double-love her in the new ad campaign for Chanel's new cocoon handbag range, where she has been styled a la Audrey Hepburn.
What I can't get on board with are the actual bags... Take a look at the colour photo above! Eeewwww.... We'll have to hope they're prettier in person. I guess at least they look nice and comfy!

Sassy Addresses: Vickie

We had meetings in Central today, and found ourselves with 10 minutes to kill by browsing around the shops on Queen Victoria Street (running between Queen's Road and Des Voeux Road). We wandered into this little shoe store and found a hidden gem. Featuring lots of "interpretations" of brands like Valentino and Jimmy Choo, Vickie shoes can customize any of their styles with different heel styles and heights. They stock larger sizes too in all the styles we tried on (e.g. 39-41), and will punch extra holes in your straps for no extra charge.

With prices between HK$350-500, they're reasonably priced too. Maura and I each picked up a pair so decided to pose with our bags outside the store while Natalie almost got run over standing in the road taking our picture.

A productive day!

Vickie
3, Queen Victoria Street, Central
Tel: 2525 6402

Feeling Film Noir

We're feeling very film noir today... we've been working on the design for the flyer for our Sassy Hour next week, and we've been inspired by the glamorous location! More news coming later this week.

We had so much fun at belly dancing on Saturday evening, and were surprised how much of a workout it was. Our sides were aching the next day because it seems to use muscles you don't know you have. We drank wine and honored our inner goddesses! We'll be putting up pictures here and on our main website later today. Thankfully we couldn't make a video!

We were going to post about beach fashion today, but waking up to the driving rain soon put that idea out of our minds. It was a struggle to even get out of bed today, right?